Monday, March 14, 2011

Catch up: No photos though

Catch up on South Africa:

This is going back a bit, but quickly in case any one is interested where we visited. After leaving Botswana we had a bit of time to waste in SA so decided to head over towards the Drankensburg Escarpments where the High Veld drops about 1000m to the Low Veld (after visiting Pilansberg National Park). We stayed in a place called Graskop (sp) near Pilgrims Rest. Pilgrims Rest is a sleepy tourist destination with old wooden buildings nestled into the side of steep hills... could be mistaken for many places in NZ except there was a double shooting which we witnessed the aftermath on our way to Graskop Graskop is famous for its pancakes and amazing dramatic scenery as you look down onto the Low Veld.

Next we visited Nelspriet where we met Happiness the unhappy receptionist, also a weird hippy English woman... another long story. Then down to the Cradle of Mankind an awesome museum and cave net work where they have discovered many early huminoid fossils.Finally we were down in Kestell near the actual Drankensburgs, an amazing mountain range where we did a walk up to about 3000m over some chain ladders, etc. Then we finished it off with a trip to a couple we met in Pilansburg NP in Delmas just outside of J'burg. They put us up for a night, fed us, washed us and even helped us clean out 12,000km's of dirt from the car. We had a brief visit to J'burg and visited the Apartheid Museum which was interesting but a bit in depth.

Finally we are up to the last post here in Malawi!

So after out 34 hour bus trip from J'burg to Blantyre we jumped on a bus to Monkey Bay which is the largest port on Lake Malawi. Not much of a town, no ATM to get money out, a couple of supermarkets (that stock tea, soap and rice) and a large market. The best bit though was this camp we came across called Mufasa. It had no power, but had the best location we've come across to date on the lake. It was nestled in to its own bay surrounded by hills, a little island you could swim out to and at night was surrounded by fireflies when they lit the lamps and candles. It was so good that after we went to the back packer mecca of Cape Maclear in the next bay, we decided to come back to Monkey Bay.

The lake is home to about 600 species of Chiclid fish and when you jump in you are surrounded by a multitude of different colours that makes you feel like you're snorkeling off a tropical island. There are so many that when you stand still they start nibbling at your skin! The water is also extremely clear and you can see for about 20m whilst you float around in 28 degree water. The other thing Lake Malawi is known for is the Ilalla Ferry that Dani and I spent 2 nights on whilst we chugged in 1st class to Nkahata Bay. 1st class consisted of a bar, access to the restaurant and an open deck that you can sleep on (and get covered in diesel soot). We stopped off at a few ports and took the life rafts to shore whilst they ferried people, chickens and corn, for a look around a few towns and islands. Otherwise the rest of the time we spent stuck in Nkahata Bay doing pretty much nothing. We had this amazing accommodation where our room and big deck over hung the lake. Great for sitting around and reading all day.

Finally we dragged ourselves away and are back on the lake at a place called Chitimba. We climbed up a 4WD road to Livingstonia yesterday and hitched a ride on the ambulance back down. Tomorrow we are off to Tanzania and then we take a train to Dar es Salaam.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Malawi... Quick update

We're still alive and loving Malawi. Internet is rubbish though so will update properly when we have more time and a better connection.